Lately, I often get asked what camera gear I use.
When I started taking photography more seriously, I was dreaming about a SLR camera. At the same time, I didn't want to invest a lot of money in equipment at the beginning, because I didn't know if I will last with it. I read the reviews of the food bloggers I followed and decided between Nikon and Canon. In the end, I decided for Nikon. I bought a D3200 DSLR camera and 50 mm and 24-72 mm basic lenses. I gradually learned and gained experience. I enjoyed taking action shots such as sugaring, icing or smoke, and found that unfortunately the current DSLR camera is not quite ideal. I like to shoot at low ISO, even for these types of photos, and in cloudy weather or low light conditions, the resulting photos were very grainy.
The same goes for a high ISO. It was not always possible to adjust everything in the post process. So, after a long time, I decided to get a new body – I wanted to keep the lenses, so I was looking for a body that would suit me and also so that I wouldn't have to buy new lenses. I stayed with Nikon and bought a digital full frame SLR camera model D850.
But before we will dive into the equipment in more detail, I would like to say that there is no need to have the fanciest camera gear to be a great photographer. The gear does not make the photographer. I can say from my own experience that it is important to practice your skills and creativity. Even though I have – dare I say - good gear, I'm constantly trying new and different things, trying to keep learning - in virtual courses or in person at various workshops, or maybe participating in IG challenges that keep me motivated to try new things and push myself.
The other important thing is also to know your camera. To be honest, I didn't read the whole manual. I always must try everything practically in order to understand the given feature. So sometimes it's a trial-and-error method, which on the other hand is very constructive 😊. However, the more you practice and try, the faster you will get used to the camera and the equipment and master the skills.
If you did not find what you were interested in in the article, feel free to write to me.
WHAT CAMERA GEAR I USE?
CAMERA BODY
I shoot on a full-frame digital single-lens reflex (DSLR) camera, a Nikon D850. The acquisition value is of course high (and I didn't have to invest in new lenses), but for me it's a very versatile camera that can be used for shooting different genres – food, macro, portraits, studio or landscape photos, architecture, etc.
I will not go into detail here about the technical details, they can be studied on the sellers' websites. For me, the D850 is a very versatile camera with excellent image resolution. I was probably most pleased with the high performance at high sensitivities. Even with a high ISO, the photos are practically noise-free. Another advantage comparing with my old model was the ability to connect to the app on my smartphone using Wi-fi, it helps me so much while setting up a scene or shoot if I need to be in the frame. You can also use the app to control the camera. This option was not yet available on my previous camera.
Videos are currently trending. You can shoot both 4K and 8K videos on the Nikon D850. The advantage is that you can choose from several options for setting the number of frames per second. If I'm filming, I use the option to set slow motion – I find this option more convenient compared making the slow motion in the app in post process (I find the video to be smoother than slow motion in the app).
LENSES
When buying a lens, I recommend you think first about what you will be photographing the most. I knew that I would focus mostly on food, so I invested in several lenses. Even though I shoot portraits and nature here and there, I can take high quality photos with what I have. But for nature photography, for example, a telephoto lens would be more suitable. Currently, it is also possible to borrow a lens for testing.
My recommendations:
Another important point when purchasing a lens, is to find out if the lens is compatible with your camera - for Nikon, follow the type of mount. In my case, the Nikon D850 has an F-mount, so if I want to buy a new lens, I must make sure it's suitable for my camera.
I not only use lenses from the Nikon series, but also Tamron or Sigma. I won't lie to you; they came out cheaper and the quality is very high. If you will be purchasing a brand other than the camera brand, make sure again it is suitable for your camera. For example, the Sigma brand produces lenses for both Nikon and Canon.
And now, let’s speak about lenses I use.
SIGMA 24-70 MM F / 2,8
It's the only zoom lens I own and the one I use most often together with the 50 mm lens. I use it most often when shooting overhead scenes or when I need to capture a larger scene. It is very variable lens, it allows me to shoot multiple scenes from different distances and angles, which is an advantage in environments where there is not much space. I also carry it with me when traveling or taking photos in nature. Unfortunately, in these cases, it is a bit bulky since it weighs about 1 kg. If I go purposefully to take photos, I take everything I have with me 😊.
Lens: Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8L – Shot at focal length 44mm – Settings ISO 320; f/5,6; 1/60 sec
Lens: Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8L – Shot at focal length 45mm – Settings ISO 100; f4.5; 1/60 sec
NIKON 50 MM F / 1,8
Another lens I use most often is the 50 mm. I like photos with a high depth of field, so I use this lens most often when shooting scenes, events, and portraits. It works great even in low light conditions. Thanks to the lower weight of the lens, I can hold the camera in my hand without having to use a tripod.
Lens: Nikon 50mm f/1.8 – Settings ISO 500; f4.5; 1/50 sec
Lens: Nikon 50mm f/1.8 – Settings ISO 250; f4.5; 1/40 sec
NIKON 35 MM F / 1,8
This lens was the first one I owned that was "packaged" with the camera. I don't use it much now, but thanks to the depth of field and good lighting characteristics, I use it in some cases when shooting overhead shots, because again I can hold it better in my hand.
SIGMA 105 MM F / 2,8 MACRO
I bought a macro lens only in 2022 because I felt in love with taking macro photos. But you can use it to photograph different angles and scenes - you just have to have enough space around. In terms of sharpness, it is the sharpest lens I have. You can also set 3 ranges of distances at which you take pictures. When photographing wider scenes, I stay at the focus of F 3.5 – 5, 6. When photographing scenes from above, I set to at least F 5.6. When taking macro photos, I also go above F 10.
UV FILTERS
I recommend you get UV filters. I have UV filters on all my lenses. Even though I only have basic ones, I don't need for example a polarizer, the optical glass of the filter will protect the lens from scratches for example - it's better to scratch the filter than the lens. The filters which are currently available on the market are of high quality and will not affect the outcome of the photo in any way. I personally have HOYA brand filters. When getting them, it's important to get the correct diameter to fit your lens.
TRIPOD + C-STAND
I'll be honest, I don't like using them. I like to move around the scene and examine shots from different angles. In addition, I am a terrible nervous person in this case and the various settings completely irritate me 😊. However, it's a matter of habit and I've learned to work with them - I take the camera in my hand, walk around the scene (so I don't have to carry a tripod), find a good shot and then install the camera on the tripod.
When you really need a tripod?
- I don't have any models for photo shoots and all the scenes where there are hands, movement, figure, I make a model myself. So, I wouldn't photograph anything without a tripod.
- Shooting scenes from above – you can't always hold your camera in your hand at a given setting.
- Shooting in poor lighting conditions, at a low ISO or at a high aperture number, when you need, for example, to photograph products or large-format photos without any noise. A tripod is simply a must here.
- Shooting cinemagraphs - a combination of photo and video, when one part is in motion - you need the same scene, which will be covered in the post process
- Shooting stop motions – you take pictures of the same scene in which you basically move things millimeter by millimeter and then combine them into a moving scene, again you need a stable scene so that it looks natural and the same
- Videos
I have a tripod with a folding arm and a C-Stand.
Nowadays, you can find tripods made of lighter materials, which is convenient for carrying and handling. I use a Manfrotto MT190 XPRO4 and a Manfrotto MHXPRO-BHQ2 tripod ball head. I chose this tripod mainly because of the folding central column, which allows me to photograph overhead scenes. But since I'm always nervous about having a small table and having to help myself with a chair and cabinets, I usually climb the ladder anyway and take pictures in my hands. But as I mentioned above, sometimes it's just not possible without a tripod.
The C-Stand is a very sturdy tripod that you can adjust to a height of 2-3 meters. I use a C-stand K1 C-stand 3.3m with a folding arm. In addition to the camera, you can also use it for lights.
My recommendations:
In both cases - if you have tripods with folding arm - I recommend loading (balancing) the arm with some kind of counterweight. If you have a heavier camera with a heavier lens, it likes to tip over.
I also recommend that you check before/when purchasing them that the threads of the camera / tripod head / tripod are compatible (listed in the manuals and on the product pages) or that you have suitable reduction screws (or you must order them).
Lens: Nikon 105mm f/2.8 Macro – Settings ISO 100; f3.5; 1/640 sec (with tripod)
WIRELESS REMOTE
Currently, you can also control the camera remotely.
One option is to connect via cables directly to the program, in which you will then process the photo. You can see a preview of the scene directly in the program. A big advantage is that you can prepare the scene in the process and live preview.
The second option, which I use when taking photos of myself or again when assembling a scene (e.g., when looking from above), is an application on my smartphone. Each brand has its own app – I use Snap Bridge for Nikon. The application is connected to the camera via wi-fi and allows me to directly control the camera settings - ISO, focus, aperture, exposure, etc. (live view in the camera must be turned off). You can also set a timer here – a great option if you need both hands in the shot. Minus points for me - it is not possible to take multiple photos at once (or I haven't figured it out) and Wi-Fi only works at a certain distance from the camera - for example, when I was taking pictures outside and wanted to take a picture in the distance, the connection was disconnected - on the other hand, it can be solved by changing the lens 😊.
DIFFUSER AND REFLECTOR
The diffuser serves to disperse the light. It is sold in different sizes. But you can just as well use a curtain.
Some models of diffusers can also be purchased with reflectors for light reflection or absorption.
But you can use cheaper versions instead:
- white paper or polystyrene to direct the light reflection away from the light source onto the object
- mirror / plate with foil
- I use black paper/board for a change to absorb light
OTHER EQUIPMENT
I recommend getting (and always have with you):
- spare batteries (buy at least 2), which will be charged. There's nothing worse than running out of battery in the middle of a photo shoot.
- spare cards – I personally have 2, but of course it depends if you need them depending on what you are shooting). At the same time, before taking photos, I check how much space there is. You must keep in mind that you want to shoot videos at the same time, they take up much more space. Also, check if the card is suitable for videos before purchasing (not all cards are suitable).
- an external disk - it will come in handy. Photos and videos, especially if you shoot in RAW format, take up a lot of space. The same catalogs of editing programs and the resulting photos. I use a SanDisk Extreme Pro Portable V2 SSD 2TB, which during my activities can back up approximately 1-1.5 years of photos, including RAW formats and videos. Of course, it is also more affordable for me to buy regularly over a longer period of time, a direct proportion applies here too: more space = higher price 😊.
PHOTOS AND VIDEOS EDITING
I don't know any photographer who doesn't edit the photos afterwards (at least the digital ones). I will only give you the programs, because I think that there is no point in detailing anything more in this article 😊:
Photos - Lightroom
Videos - I'm using Lightroom for now because I'm trying to make the videos match the photos in style. But no big miracles can be done in LR. Basically, only very basic values can be adjusted, and presets can be used.
Videos - Zoner - a Czech program that I got used to more than Adobe Premiere Pro. I use it to cut videos, change videos to portrait, compose videos, etc. In addition, there is an option to create stop motions and cinemagraphs, so I don't need other applications. Plus, more affordable than monthly app subscriptions.
And that's all for now... I hope I haven't forgotten anything, and if so, let me know if you're interested in more details.
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